I scoured the web looking for some plans for a wedging table, and I did find Brad Sondahl's diagram which influenced heavily my design. Here is a .pdf of my plan with the materials lists (both cut and uncut). I notice that I neglected to put the rail kits for the sliding doors (upper and lower rails for a 48" and 24" long opening). The dimensions will be 50" x 25", with six 4x4 posts notched for the three 2x4 frames. The two lower 2x4 frames are 48" x 20 3/4" and the upper frame is 25 13/16" 20 3/4 ". The frames can be nailed, but I will be bolting with 3/8" x 4" bolts where I can, and then nailing where I can't bolt. There will be two plaster wedging surfaces at 26" high, and then at 36" high and covered with heavy canvas. The plaster may need to be secured to the plywood, which I haven't totally solved how to do yet. But if it is needed, I was thinking of trying some of those two sided sticky rubber sheets used for sealing roofs. There is a large space underneath for storage, then a small space accessible from the side as well. I will be adding a cutting wire on there somewhere as well. I will add some photo's once I build it to show the final product.
Monday, November 24, 2008
Wedging Table
I scoured the web looking for some plans for a wedging table, and I did find Brad Sondahl's diagram which influenced heavily my design. Here is a .pdf of my plan with the materials lists (both cut and uncut). I notice that I neglected to put the rail kits for the sliding doors (upper and lower rails for a 48" and 24" long opening). The dimensions will be 50" x 25", with six 4x4 posts notched for the three 2x4 frames. The two lower 2x4 frames are 48" x 20 3/4" and the upper frame is 25 13/16" 20 3/4 ". The frames can be nailed, but I will be bolting with 3/8" x 4" bolts where I can, and then nailing where I can't bolt. There will be two plaster wedging surfaces at 26" high, and then at 36" high and covered with heavy canvas. The plaster may need to be secured to the plywood, which I haven't totally solved how to do yet. But if it is needed, I was thinking of trying some of those two sided sticky rubber sheets used for sealing roofs. There is a large space underneath for storage, then a small space accessible from the side as well. I will be adding a cutting wire on there somewhere as well. I will add some photo's once I build it to show the final product.
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3 comments:
I'm thinking about building one or two wedging tables for some potters. How did you like this design? Would you change anything about it? Do you like the doors? Do you find them getting in the way? Why the two heights and the very short storage area on the side? (I'm not a potter...) Why did you go with plaster and not concrete or wood/canvas?
How did your wedging table turn out? Would you mind posting some photos? I would like to try to build your table, but don't quite understand the drawing. Thanks!
JTH -- Yes, I like it. My studio is small, so the table was designed to fit in a smaller space. Others I have used in instructional settings have been 4' x 4' and designed to allow 2 or 4 people to use them at a time. The doors are fine. I added them to enable me to clean up my studio, and have it seem less industrial. The two heights were to allow for wedging large amounts of clay at the lower height, and also small amount when you don't need to put your whole body into it. Plaster has a great capacity to absorb moisture, so often you use the wedging table to also firm up a loose batch of clay. Another factor is mass, so that when you do need to put your whole body into wedging, the table seems unmovable. I do cover the plaster with heavy canvas to prevent any possible plaster chips from getting into the clay body.
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